Mimaki Printer FAQ: What I Wish I'd Known Before Buying

Before I bought my first Mimaki inkjet printer, I had a list of questions. Some I got good answers to. Some I didn't. And the ones I didn't get good answers to ended up costing me roughly $4,800 over my first 18 months in business.

This is the FAQ I wish someone had handed me before I started. It's written from the other side of those mistakes.

1. What's the #1 mistake people make with Mimaki printers?
2. Do I really need Mimaki cleaning solution, or is generic fine?
3. Which Mimaki inkjet printer should a small shop start with?
4. Is a DTF printer shaker mandatory, or can I shake by hand?
5. Will an A2 sublimation printer cover my needs?
6. Can I find a DTF printer under $1500 that's worth buying?
7. What hidden costs should I budget for?

1. What's the #1 mistake people make with Mimaki printers?

Assuming the sticker price is the full price. I know this from personal experience: in 2017 I budgeted for a base Mimaki printer and completely ignored installation, the startup ink set, and the first round of maintenance supplies. The total came in around 30% higher than the quote I'd budgeted from. That 30% wasn't a deal-breaker — but it hurt, and it forced me to delay buying a second printer by a full quarter.

To be fair, nothing was intentionally hidden by the dealer — I just didn't ask. Now I tell everyone the same thing: get the full cost breakdown before you commit. Ask "what's NOT included?" before you sign. That single question has saved me more money than any discount ever did.

2. Do I really need Mimaki cleaning solution, or is generic fine?

I tested this so you don't have to. In my first year, I switched to a third-party cleaning solution to save about $22 per bottle. Within three months, I noticed banding on prints that hadn't been there before. The service tech's report pointed directly at the cleaning solution. (I still have that report, by the way.)

What I mean is: genuine Mimaki cleaning solution isn't just "cleaner." It's a chemistry match — formulated for the specific ink set and printhead configuration in their machines. Replacing a printhead would have cost me around $1,200. Luckily we caught the problem before it got that far.

To be fair, some shops run third-party solutions without issues. But on a five-figure machine? I'm not risking a printhead to save $22 a bottle. I've used the genuine stuff ever since.

3. Which Mimaki inkjet printer should a small shop start with?

I get this question a lot. My honest answer: it depends on what you're printing. A sign shop doing UV flatbed work has different needs than a shop doing DTF transfers.

Personally, I started with a general-purpose solvent printer because I assumed "versatile" meant "good at everything." The result: it was good at some things and average at others. Learn from my mistake — pick the machine that matches your highest-volume job, not the one that covers every possible job you might get someday.

That said, Mimaki's lineup spans from entry-level to full industrial. There's room to grow without switching brands, which is worth something. And their support network — at least in my region — has been responsive when I've needed them.

4. Is a DTF printer shaker mandatory, or can I shake by hand?

I tried the "shake by hand" route for exactly one 50-shirt order. It's doable. It also took three times as long, and the powder coverage was uneven enough that 8 shirts had patchy spots after pressing.

A DTF printer shaker — integrated or standalone — gives you consistent powder distribution and even curing. If you're doing any volume beyond samples, get one. The good news: the shaker doesn't have to match the printer brand. I currently run a Mimaki DTF printer with a standalone shaker unit and they work fine together.

One spec check I almost missed: the shaker's maximum width needs to be at least as wide as your largest prints. A 40cm shaker won't handle 45cm prints. Measure twice, buy once.

5. Will an A2 sublimation printer cover my needs?

This depends entirely on what you're selling. A2 (roughly 17" × 24") handles mugs, T-shirts, phone cases, and small panels well. But the moment I took a large-format banner order, I was stuck outsourcing it — and watching part of my margin disappear.

If your product mix is mostly small items, an A2 machine is a legitimate starting point. But look at your projected product mix for the next 12 months, not just today's orders. If you think you'll need larger output, save up for the next size up. Upgrading mid-business is expensive: you pay twice and lose momentum.

Mimaki's sublimation lineup, for reference, starts at the TS30-1300 (54" wide) — a completely different category from A2 desktop units. If A2 truly covers your product line, there are good options out there. Just go in knowing that "A2" means a hard size ceiling.

6. Can I find a DTF printer under $1500 that's worth buying?

I'd be lying if I said there's a Mimaki DTF printer under $1500 — there isn't. And honestly, I'd be skeptical of most DTF printers in that price range.

Here's what I learned the hard way: the printer is only the beginning. You still need a shaker, powder, curing unit, film, and ink. Those consumables add up pretty quickly. At that price tier, you're typically looking at modified stock printers rather than machines built for production from the ground up. To be fair, some people make them work. But the budget DTF units that came through my shop spent more time being repaired than printing.

If $1,500 is your hard ceiling, consider a used entry-level printer from a reputable brand — or keep saving. A reliable machine pays for itself in avoided downtime. Per FTC guidelines, advertising claims need to be truthful and substantiated — so if a "complete DTF bundle" price seems too good to be true, do the math on the consumables before you order.

7. What hidden costs should I budget for?

Okay, this is the one I wish someone had walked me through. On paper, my first printer's cost was clear. Here's what wasn't on the quote:

• Installation and setup fees
• Starter ink set (larger than you'd expect)
• Cleaning solution and maintenance kits
• A voltage stabilizer, if your shop's power isn't clean
• The learning curve — I burned about 15% of my first ink batch on test prints and troubleshooting

In my opinion, the smartest question you can ask any dealer is: "What gets consumed or breaks in year one, and what does each item cost?" If the answer is vague, call another dealer. Transparent pricing — seeing every fee up front, even when the total looks higher — has saved me more money than any "lowest price" promise ever did.